So concludes another Silent Film poll (on the right hand side of your screen). July's question, "Who was the Greatest
Flapper?" It seems one choice was obvious to most of you.
#1: Clara Bow 46%
#2: Louise Brooks 30%
#3: Olive Thomas 10%
#4: Colleen Moore 8%
#5: Anna May Wong 3%
#6: Gloria Swanson 1%As always I think you kiddies are a little off. Below is my ranking:
#1: Louise BrooksLouise Brooks made a strong showing in
our vamp and
greatest actress poll. She was definitely the point where vamp met flapper. I think to most people a picture of Louise would signify flapper as they envision it: her black helmet, a low cut (usually in the back) dress, no bosom or hips, and that "I'll do what I want" little look she had since 1916.
In her films Louise is more vamp than flapper. Flappers didn't take crap, and they rarely dealt with such heavy issues like Louise's films did (Pandora's Box, Beggars of Life). True Louise was very independent, very for the moment as one would imagine a flapper. She was flapper in image, but not in her films. And arguably not in life either (flappers would rather drink then stay home and read...of course Louise found a way to combine the two but I digress...)
It's a little odd to place her above those who embodied flapper more so in their films. But I guarentee when anyone thinks flapper Louise is the first image that jumps in their mind. One look at the number of black helmet styled hairdos that reign to this day would prove as such.
#2: Clara BowNow Clara was the opposite: flapper in her films, but not in her life. Oh sure she tried...Clara was always up for fun and partying. But Hollywood literally shunned her, and with newspapers making up scandals she wasn't allowed to see her believed USC friends (who by the way
she did not have a gangbang with, that was one such terrible rumor). Clara was free and wild and tried to embody the flapper...but she had a much darker sadder side. Raped by her father and abused by both her parents her childhood makes Marilyn Monroe's look like a fairytale. Clara was not well and suffered horribly for the lack of help she received. Unfortunately this also derailed her career; as she could not continue being abused by the studio and those around her while near the breaking point.
In her films Clara was much more the flapper. She was the IT girl (the one and only bite me Paris Hilton...Paris Hilton has skankiness, not IT), she was the dancing happy wild flapper in one film after another. Everyone wanted to be Clara...including Louise Brooks who wrote very fondly and enthusiastically of her later on in life (and was very angry that Kevin Brownlow had not mentioned Clara at all in his book).
Clara's image is to me more Clara than flapper or vamp or any type. That wild flowing hair is how we all think of her, though she ran through various styles (my finger wave book gives a variation on a short bob as 'the Clara Bow bob' presumably before IT) and colors (she sometimes had to switch between blonde and red hair in a WEEK due to filming several films at once). Though her look was all Clara, her actions were flapper when she was well. Clara recalled fondly driving down Sunset Blvd in her convertible with her red hair flowing and a few yappy dogs of the same color running around in the back seat. Now THAT is a flapper!
#3: Anna May WongAnna was a flapper that could have outshone even Louise..
.had she been white. Hollywood would not let Anna lead...she couldn't after all it was against the production code to show an interracial kiss and apparently no one thought to pair her with Sessue Hayakawa (it finally happened as b characters in a talkie). Anna's story combines elements of both Louise and Clara's...however Anna rarely sabotaged herself (like Louise). Everyone else sabotaged her.
Anna had a very distinct look...and frankly I think it was very flapper. She had a cute round head and big eyes, and for quite awhile wore bobbed hair. She was the perfect model for flapper fashions and again she could have outshone Louise in this regard any day (in fact Anna modeled one of the first pant suits for women in the late 20s...take that Dietrich and Crawford!)
Anna perhaps more than the others was very flapper in her personal life. Restricted by her traditional Chinese American family she was always walking the fine line between two worlds. But she traveled, she studied what she wanted, and she dated several prominent white men no matter how illegal it was (
yes it was at the time...how sad). She paid a price, but she at least got a little something in return.
In her films Anna was rarely allowed to be anything but a 'Dragon lady'. Always the evil chinee out to steal the white man, and she must die or kill herself by the end of it. Like Josephine Baker she made a few more flappery films in Europe, but overall dear Anna barely got to be flapper (or much anything) in her films despite her talent and beauty.
#4 Gloria SwansonI dont think any of us nowadays think much of Gloria as a flapper. When I first read her biography (shortly after being acquainted with silent film) I was perplexed at how she had been a fashion icon...to me she was this woman known for being a great actress...yet from the 1910s to the 1930s Gloria was all fashion. Sure she was a great actress WHILE looking good, but she was as important to fashion as Posh Spice or
Valeska Surratt. Gloria even credited one of her outfits for landing her a role as an extra, her first foray into film.
Nowadays I think we associate her more as glamorous. A mid 1920s paper called her a
baby vamp which enraged her. I think that might be how we see her now: a glamorous little vamp with talent. But indeed she was a flapper during the 20s! In her films women came to see Gloria's latest fashions. When she bobbed her hair or wore a certain style it was a fashion ruling as if laid out in Vogue. Some of her earliest films showed the evolving baby vamp to flapper: Why Change Your Wife? to Beyond the Rocks. By the late 20s Gloria had gone full out: what is more flapper than Sadie Thompson?
In her private life Gloria was quite flapper as well. She married several times, had a child without being married (albeit adopted him), and ran her own production company for UA. Sometimes she made bad decisions but they were always her doing...Gloria lived the good and fast life and she enjoyed and paid for it all. Sadly via these polls I'm starting to think you guys are forgetting her greatness...she didn't come out anywhere near high enough in the
greatest actress poll!
#5: Olive ThomasOlive was THE original flapper. Sure she was stuck somewhere between baby vamp and actual flapper but hey...when you're the first...
Olive's films followed a forumla much like Clara Bow's did (only Ollie's are much...older). She would play a teenaged girl in some sort of comedy or drama and usually end up doing something girl power along the way (In Love's Prisoner she robs the rich ladies she throws parties for to pay for her sisters after her father was wrongly thrown in jail).
The fashions are very 1910s but they were still stunning none the less. However Olive came along before the bob (actually she came around right about the year a Kansas barber bobbed Louise's hair for the first time) at a time when corsets were the role and makeup was still for whores. In her looks we would not associate her with flapper.
In her actions however Olive set a proud precedent for all future flappers. She danced, she drank, she smoke, she likely did cocaine. She lied and said she married Jack Pickford (brother to Hollywood's queen and one of the richest and most famous women in the world at the time) in 1916 when actually they wouldn't marry for another 2 years. She had a mouth that would make Clara Bow or Nita Naldi blush. She went out in spectacular fashion: accidentally swallowing poison in Paris after partying all night. If there ever was a true flapper Olive Thomas was it.
Olive was the first to portray a flapper, with 1920's "The Flapper" (one of her last films). Olive played a similar type she had always played, the type that would pave the way for so many others. Unfortunately midway through the silent era she is all but forgotten today.
#6: Colleen MooreIn 1923 Colleen Moore defined herself with a picture that seemed to define a fad: Flaming Youth. Colleen always thought she was the first flapper (she wasn't) and that she was the first to bob her hair (she wasn't). Flaming Youth supposedly defined the flapper, heavily associating Colleen with that role. F. Scott Fitzgerald considered himself and Colleen the flame that set off the flapper movement (well they definitely grew upon it they did not originate the idea). Eventually Colleen would switch to more comedic roles, as if a flapper playing in a comedy.
In her later years Colleen gave a print of "Flaming Youth" to MOMA. MOMA decided to sit on their hands and do nothing and the print decomposed...the film is now considered lost (as are a lot of her films). While she had some nice movies its hard to think of her as much of a flapper today. To me shes about as flapper as Mary Pickford and about as comedic as a rip off of Mabel Normand (hides from the tomatoes thrown at her).
Personally I don't think she had much of the flapper look either. Sure she had the bob, and the flat body...but she looks more like a little doll than a naughty flapper. Like a good Christian version of Louise Brooks...she's cute but she isn't iconic in her look.
In her private life Colleen didn't seem much like a flapper either. She married shortly after talkies and wrote books about investing in the stock market (something her husband made a lot of money doing).